ConserVentures

Winter sunset

2011-01-31T17:31:00.001-08:00

-- Posted from my iPhone

Double Circle Ranch in eastern AZ a great destination

2011-01-10T05:57:00.000-08:00

Looking for a unique overland getaway in a remote part of Arizona, with all the romance of the old West, and all the forward-thinking of the new West? Check out Double Circle Ranch, a classic dude ranch with a twist: ride roundups, enjoy classes on ecosystem restoration or painting or photography, or just hang out in one of the great outfitter tents that give this solar- and wind-powered ranch a real-old-west feel. You can explore the Eagle Creek roads all the way to the bottom of the Mogollon Rim, where some fantastic hiking trails begin. The owners also support important efforts such as restoration of the Mexican gray wolf to its former range in the area ~ how cool is that? www.DoubleCircleRanch.com

New iLCP website

2011-01-07T11:20:00.000-08:00

The International League of Conservation Photographers has launched a beautiful new website that's well worth a look.

Their RAVE projects are impressive. RAVE stands for Rapid Assessment Visual Expedition, the aim of which is to "achieve a full visual and media assessment of a threatened ecosystem in a short period of time, by means of a multi-disciplinary team including iLCP photographers working in a variety of specialties (landscape, wildlife, macro, camera trapping, portraiture, documentary, etc.), writers, and videographers. Their job is to bring back a comprehensive portrait of a conservation issue or threat and to hopefully train the lens of the international media on that issue." Click on the photo or link above to learn more about this great organization.

Urban snorkel

2010-12-23T12:33:00.000-08:00

Who would have thought my ARB Safari snorkel would have come in handy in LA? Over the last week 18" of rain has fallen, average rate of .5 to 1" per hour!

Heading home now, just found a new favorite food stop, in the Palm Desert north Palm Springs, a mile north of I10. The Windmill Market has great tacos and sandwiches, a great selection of micro-brew sodas, and date shakes. And super friendly owner to boot. A nice stop.

-- Posted from my iPhone

-- Posted from my iPhone

Rain

2010-12-16T10:24:00.000-08:00

Passing through Phoenix:

Haven't seen water in the sky here in southern Arizona since September. On our way to LA and forecast is for lots of this stuff. Bring it on!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Perfect Sunday

2010-12-12T17:11:00.001-08:00

Gorgeous weather in southern Arizona lured Roseann and friend Bruce out for a 100-mile adventure ride - through the grassland hills of the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge to Gadsden Coffee Co in Arivaca.
It was so warm we passed a rattlenake sunning on the road.

Just arrived home to this:

-- Posted from my iPhone

What we have to be thankful for

2010-11-28T12:49:00.000-08:00

We are especially thankful this year for the wonderful people we count as true friends. We spent part of the weekend in west-central Arizona, just south of the Bill Williams River Wilderness. We see most of these people once a year or every few years yet are blessed by the time we do spend, meeting up in remote beautiful locations.

A little backroads exploring with good food, good drink, good people. Isn't this what it is all about?

Heading toward the Bill Williams River, a beautiful desert oasis.

Look for Al's 'bar flag' and that's where you'll find the action . . . and the tequila selection.

No campfire is complete without marshmallows.
Chris and Sharon made everyone pancakes with all the fixing.

If you are on Facebook, you can see a full photo album here.

- Posted from my iPhone

Tuesday sunset

2010-11-23T16:37:00.001-08:00

Beautiful end to a lovely day. A lot to be thankful for this week.
Thank you to all our supporters!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Profiles in scientific courage

2010-11-23T15:19:00.000-08:00

While today's scientific explorers face physical, intellectual, and financial challenges, their hardships hardly compare with those faced by science pioneers from years past. I recently found this interesting re-posting on Science News on Explorersweb. The question posed is: ""Historical scientists and their importance to society - What moves a person to give up everything in defense of truth?" Profiles include Hypatia (depicted in a painting, above; who ran a library in Alexandria 1400 years ago). A good quick read.

Internship opportunity in Argentina

2010-11-05T06:25:00.000-07:00

Here's a great opportunity for someone with modern communication skills (the dreaded social media!) to spend a year in the remote Patagonia region of Argentina, at a community conservation and sustainable living project called La Confluencia.

Position announcement

La Confluencia website

D.I.Y. foreign aid ~ a great article by Nicolas Kristof

2010-10-29T07:04:00.000-07:00

There is a very long but very interesting and thoughtful article in the NYT by Nicolas Kristof on the many people, especially the young, who are embarking on their own charities for causes about which they are passionate. Some really inspiring stories:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/24/magazine/24volunteerism-t.html?pagewanted=6&_r=2

Luncheon companions

2010-10-26T18:31:00.001-07:00

Had lunch with potential partners at the Living Desert zoo in Palm Springs. These Asian leopards were our companions. I love this work!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Back home, in style!

2010-10-11T07:43:00.000-07:00

After 24+ hours on planes and in airports we arrived home to our beautiful Sonoran Desert. At the airport in Phoenix a friendly bellhop offered to get us a cab to our truck parked at a friend's house in Tempe; but what he got us was a limo! Same price as a yellow cab, so what the heck? 3000 miles of African roads, then the last 25 of our trip by limo. At least it wasn't a Hummer limo.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Siafu!

2010-10-07T07:06:00.001-07:00

The dreaded exclamation you don't want to hear: safari ants!

Millions of them invaded our camp/lodge last night. Quite an impressive sight, and even more impressive bites. Ouch! And they don't let go. We slept lightly imagining them invading our beds.

-- Posted from my iPhone

South Rift Game Scouts donation

2010-10-04T08:16:00.001-07:00

Some of the 'bull-dust' common in the Rift Valley during the dry season. The dust is the texture of cornsilk and billows like water - and enters any possible crack and settles on everything.

We arrived at the South Rift Resource Centre in southern Kenya yesterday afternoon after a spectacular drive from the moist highlands of Nairobi down the Great Rift Valley wall, and today spent the day with the South Rift Game Scouts from the two nearby communities.

We brought with us 5 lightweight tents donated by Sierra Designs, and waterproof binoculars and GPS units (and a solar battery recharger) donated by ConserVentures members and supporters.

Jonathan showed the scouts how to pitch the tents and set up and use the binoculars.

The equipment is just the start of a support program we are developing for the community conservation area game scouts in the region. Over half the famous East African wildlife in Kenya exists outside the parks, in community owned lands like the Maasai. They have developed their own scouts program to guard against poaching (which they are very effective at), and act as liaisons with the community when there are wildlife conflicts such as lions eating cattle. Not too long ago these young men would have been 'employed' in their communities as warriors; now they are warriors of sorts, but on the front lines of conservation.

Everything takes longer in Africa ...

2010-09-30T08:43:00.001-07:00

...But fortunately the rewards are commensurate.

Delays because of roads, ferries and long lunch service put us behind our hoped-for schedule but that means an extra night on the shores of Lake Victoria. Not bad for the eve of Jonathan's birthday (his third in Africa).

Tomorrow: long day to Nairobi where we have a meeting, then on to the South Rift to deliver the tents, GPSs and binoculars to the game scouts.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Katavi to Kigoma to Lake Victoria

2010-09-29T07:49:00.000-07:00

The track from Katavi NP to Kigoma was a surprise -- beautiful scenery, wild, up and over the Masito Escarpment, including a dramatic waterfall. It was a long day, but Kigoma, on Lake Tanganyika, held a little gem to revive us: the Livingstone - Stanley Memorial and museum. It is strictly a labor of love for a delightful Swahili gentleman who gave us a charming tour. He is passionate about the history.

Kigoma has tons of colonial charm but its past is dark: millions of Africans began their forced slave march to the east coast of Africa here.

Tonight we are en route to Lake Victoria where we take a ferry to Mwanza and then cross to Kenya.

Beautiful zebu cattle near Bwanga.

Most villages have guard stations going in and out. The guards are almost always friendly.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Remote Africa

2010-09-27T08:14:00.001-07:00

Katavi National Park is one of Africa's most remote and largest, as well as least visited, parks. We saw only a handful of people this morning and then no one the rest of the day as we pushed farther into the park on little travelled tracks. We we rewarded with this idyllic scene -- waterfall and elephant.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Moonset over Lake Tanganika

2010-09-26T02:35:00.001-07:00

Our reward this morning after an epic drive yesterday. Halfway over a mountain, no people, no cellular, the Land Rover died. At dusk. Visions of real bush camping, but Jonathan got it going. Today: Kitavi NP.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Oops

2010-09-23T22:25:00.003-07:00

Rock chip turned into a huge starburst on the road to Ruaha. Luckily it does not obscure driver vision. We have 1000 miles to go-- hope it will hold.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Leopard day

2010-09-23T22:25:00.001-07:00

Entered Ruaha National Park this morning (barely got in -- they only take US dollars and we had changed most of our funds to shillings). Within 30 minutes we came upon a lovely big leopard sitting in an acasia. Shortly after lunch we found another leopard. And then six lions snoozing off breakfast. Ended the day with sundowners at the Great Ruaha River with the hippos and crocs.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Dodoma to Ruaha National Park

2010-09-22T04:28:00.001-07:00

We have covered 600 miles of some of the roughest of Africa's classic 'b' roads -- major routes (buses, trucks) but unpaved or historically surfaced but now rocks and ruts. We had hoped to make Ruaha NP last night but only made it as far as Iringa, a really lovely town near tea plantations. Guest house was US$10 including breakfast and classic Tanzanian dinner with 2 Serengeti lagers was $8. Ugali (polenta-like corn), greens, meat and peas in delicious sauce & fruit.

We found a great Tanzanian-owned campsite just outside the park--includes a big tent for just $15 more a night. Campsites in the park are $50 bare--no shade, no services. We can cook or have food cooked, and they have hot showers. Another plus is daytime security while we are on safari. Our camp for the next 2 days:

-- Posted from my iPhone

Arusha to Dodoma

2010-09-20T11:05:00.001-07:00

Leaving Arusha, it was a tight fit. Footpaths suffice as roads barely as wide as a Land Rover.

Tarangire National Park, at Whistling Thorn Camp. A perfect first night.

One of the very best things about Tanzania are the enthusiastic kids. Everywhere you go they chase you or wave.

We arrived in Dodoma today, after 300 miles of classic Africa dirt roads, cattle, goats, trucks. Just had nyama choma (BBQ) and Serengeti lager.
-- Posted from my iPhone

Safari Land Rover

2010-09-19T05:36:00.001-07:00

Picked up our Land Rover from Shaw Safaris--fully kitted out for camping and with everything you would need, including a sling shot for marauding baboons!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Environmental Bill of Rights

2010-09-16T06:32:00.001-07:00

Kenyans just voted in a new Constitution. Interestingly, it includes several environmental articles. It's very inspiring.

Kenyan coffee

2010-09-15T11:09:00.001-07:00

One of the top reasons to spend some time in Nairobi. Outstanding Dorman's Coffee, sitting at a sidewalk table at Karen Dukas, ogling Land Cruiser diesels and classic Land Rover.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Nairobi - cool and wet

2010-09-13T23:15:00.001-07:00

Arrived last night after an easy journey, with all our bags! Always a gamble flying Amsterdam route. We are staying at a private residence that was built by Beryl Markham's father. This week is a climate change conference, meeting with BBC, and business for ConserVentures.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Win an overland trip to a jaguar reserve

2010-09-10T11:43:00.000-07:00

Apply to win a spot on our Nov. 26-28, 2010 Sonoran Safari to the El Aribabi Conservation Ranch in northern Sonora, Mexico ~ sponsored by Overland Experts. Winner will also receive 50% off a one-day training with Overland Experts. For more information about the trip, click here. All you have tell us about yourself, why you are interested in exploration, and how your participation can help jaguar and ocelot conservation. Enter now, we will announce the winner on October 20, 2010.

Donations for wildlife rangers

2010-09-03T15:34:00.000-07:00

The five tents donated by Sierra Designs arrived today. We are busy packing for the trip to take them to Kenya's South Rift Game Scout Association. Five Garmin GPSs and 5 waterproof Bushnell binoculars are also on the way. Thanks to everyone for your support!

Fall is in the air

2010-09-01T08:03:00.000-07:00

Anyone else feel fall this morning? In the desert, it is quiet, sneaky. It was nearly in the 60s this morning ~ cool for us! ~ and the sun is mellow golden, the air crisp, with a hint of something other than the 100+degrees days we've been having. Bird migration is underway, we have vultures gathering in large kettles, and orioles, grosbeaks, and hummingbirds moving through in larger numbers.

Tanking up

2010-08-30T21:46:00.001-07:00

Here's Jonathan tanking up before his whirlwind round-the-Grand Canyon ride, fantastic fajitas at Cliff Dwellers Lodge. Where does he put it?

-- Posted from my iPhone

Vermillion Cliffs

2010-08-29T18:22:00.000-07:00

At Cliff Dweller's Lodge, Grand Canyon - seeing Jonathan off on a solo ride around the Grand Canyon. Howling wind today all the way from Tucson!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Morning rumbles & rain

2010-08-26T06:14:00.001-07:00

Woke to thunder and this amazing dawnscape.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Summer garden

2010-08-25T10:38:00.000-07:00

The hills around Ravenrock are as green as an English garden, with flowers and butterflies everywhere. We leave in a few weeks for East Africa and will land deep in their dry season. But at least the heat is the same!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Sunning vultures

2010-08-08T07:02:00.001-07:00

After a rainy night, our local vultures were sunning themselves in the morning sun in trees along the big Raven Wash. I love when they hold their wings out like this - perhaps the only time you could call vultures beautiful!

Local safari: West Coast Tank, aborted

2010-08-01T07:02:00.001-07:00

One of our favorite summer activities is to explore the beautiful ranchlands and wildlife refuge immediately south of Ravenrock—one of the best destinations being West Coast Tank, an enormous cattle pond that fills up (about 5 acres) every summer with the rains. We've had inches of rain, so we headed south to West Coast. But halfway there we had to turn around, because another flooded tank had totally backed up into the road:

We explored a new route around to the east, and discovered some lovely country and lots of little temporary creeks running from the Sierrita Mountains. The desert is bursting green, and the sky was lovely blue, the Baboquivari Mountains a vibrant purple-blue. Lots of new flowers and butterflies, including ghost brimstones and bright yellow giant sulphurs.

We had lunch at the Gadsden Coffee Company in Arivaca, then out to I-19 via Amado, where we saw this sign—rural church humor. Pretty funny.

Tortoises are emerging

2010-07-29T11:05:00.000-07:00

With the summer rains come our cavalcade of tortoises. We've seen little ones and really big ones; this young guy, a medium-sized one, was ambling down the trail on our morning walk today (on males you can see the hook on the front of the plastron or belly plate, that is thought to be used during 'combat' with other males for territory; the plastron is also slightly dished, to facilitate mating).

Rain!

2010-06-30T12:26:00.001-07:00

Big, fat drops falling. Newly dampened dust-smell is wonderful. Just one medium cloud over us now, but a promising start!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Rain is coming ... And new boots

2010-06-29T17:41:00.001-07:00

Today dawned clear and became hot--really hot--quickly. By lunchtime there were towering white cumulus, and now there are dark patches of stormfront to the East. Fingers crossed.

Thoughts of early morning hikes in a greening desert make me doubly happy to find lovely new boots. All leather Mammuts (made by Raichle) with soft leather lining. So hard to find in today's Gore-Tex-fabric-dominated market. I love them!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Great event ~ great people

2010-04-28T17:20:00.000-07:00

I'm still recovering from many months straight of planning and organizing the second annual Overland Expo, which finished up the 18th of April. The event was an enormous success, I am happy to say ~ thousands of people gathered from 35 U.S. states, 4 Canadian provinces, 25 countries, 5 continents and a subcontinent. We had 100 exhibitors and authors/filmmakers, but the real treat were all the people. We met so many fantastic new friends . . . Ted (Jupitalia.com), Nicole (RuggedRider.com), Ara (theoasisofmysoul.com), Lorraine (lorrainechittock.com), Grant (optimohatworks.com - thanks for the photo and the loan of the hats!), and Duncan (wildtrackers.com), Sarah (landroverexperience.com) . . . and we caught up with many old friends. We are a tribe of nomads and explorers, who come together once a year at Overland Expo to catch up and compare adventures. You can check out more photos on the website ovexpo.com, and Facebook.com/Overland-expo as well as video at Youtube.com/Overlandexpo. Hope to see you there next year.

Spring in Arizona

2010-04-24T10:00:00.000-07:00

Half an inch of rain, snow in the mountains, birds singing, and the start of some spectacular flowers.

Spring flowers

2010-03-20T15:02:00.001-07:00

Mexican poppies in the wash by our well.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Spring motorcycle ride to Bisbee

2010-03-05T13:30:00.000-08:00

Spring fever caught up with me, along with a brutal 20+day run of straight work and I had to get out of town! So I convinced Jonathan to saddle up his retro Royal Enfield and go with me to Bisbee for a little R-n-R. A great run with my little NX250 after having the top-end totally rebuilt (bought it last April, and it ended up having burnt valves). It's humming like a Honda should now.

I added a Pelican-Storm case on the rear rack, and Wolfman's Enduro tank bag and a new Expedition Duffel - holds everything I need for several days out, and still room for a small tent if I'm camping.

We live in the western foothills of the Sierrita Mountains, southwest of Tucson (many ADVRiders in the Tucson group ride right by our house on the back way to Gadsden Coffee in Arivaca) and we headed east on Ajo Way around 9:30 am, after a little delay since this dumbo left her headlight on while loading up and, um, the battery died, necessitating an offload of gear and jump start from my Land Cruiser. Oops.

First stop, the beautiful old San Xavier Mission, south of Tucson; it's being restored, and is such a lovely sight in the desert.

I had to add this little fuzzy tool roll. I'm a sucker for all things spotted (as in cats, big ones).

On the road - finally! I was sitting a little too far forward and later had to repack the duffel a little flatter and taller so I could sit back a couple more inches; I love having something soft to lean back on every once in a while.

Boot Hill Graveyard, Tombstone; another obligatory stop. The guys at the Royal Enfield factory in India are going to love this shot!

Arrived at the Copper Queen in time for a brew (a poser shot for Overland Journal), then a stroll around town. Copper Queen is getting way too expensive, though - more than the Arizona Inn (!) and much more than most cool historic hotels. We'll be looking for another one in the region, for when we don't feel like camping.

Bisbee is full of great junk and antique shops, a great coffee shop, and now several breweries - a new one is opening up next week, and should be fantastic, with a tasting room. Had we not been on bikes I fear Jonathan would have bought this hideous stuffed cobra-mongoose tableau:

Finally got to visit Optimo Hatworks - handmade panamas and fur felt - they are exquisite, and made in Bisbee, by a true milliner. A panama is in my future this year, for sure (my old one, from Ecuador - but not nearly as nice as these! - finally bit the dust).

Ye olde workers' bathroom door, Bisbee style:

Might try this place next time, the Shady Dell, a motor hotel whose "rooms" are vintage trailers like Airstreams. Totally cool.

Next morning we headed back west, this time along the Mexico border, crossing the San Pedro River and then climbing up into the southern end of the Huachuca Mountains to Montezuma Pass.

At the top of the pass, overlooking the Sierra Madre in Mexico (far left), and the Patagonia, Baboquivari, and Santa Rita Mts in the US.

The road was hard-packed and damp, with lots of big ruts. Slow going.

Had lunch in Patagonia - met some Canadians on BMWs heading to Baja (wanted to just follow them out of the country!) - and then started home via Arivaca Road, but rather than more pavement, I suggested we head home via a ranch road that skirts the southern end of the Sierritas - beautiful historic ranch country. Stopped at San Juan Ranch, where there is a huge old mesquite corral. The adobe ranch house is slowly crumbling. Bullets and graffiti hasten the process.

A few more miles in we stopped and talked with the Border Patrol guy who was manning this high-tech surveillance unit - no wonder we have had fewer migrants and drogeros in our neck of the woods (this thing is parked about 5 miles south of our home).

Made it home by 6 pm. A little over 300 miles and a great, relaxing ride.

Snowing at Ravenrock

2010-02-10T15:16:00.001-08:00

And cold! This is a fast storm. The Sierritas just above us have a nice dusting, and looks like more is on the way. Glad you got lots of wood this week, the little Jotul stove is cranked up!

Whispers of spring

2010-01-30T09:46:00.000-08:00

Great horned owls are calling in the early morning, beginning their mating; coyote behavior is changing, with a lot more calling and greeting (pups will come in March); phainopeplas are here, calling from their clumps of mistletoe; and curve-billed thrashers are singing on territory. Sonoran Desert spring is beginning.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Sunrise surprise

2010-01-27T06:15:00.001-08:00

Storm coming today.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Ravenrock ~ winter day scene

2010-01-24T12:05:00.000-08:00

The recent stream of Pacific storms left us with a lovely dusting of snow in the mountains. Jonathan took this photo today from the road approaching our Ravenrock, looking southwest at Baboquivari Peak. The telephoto lens really compressed the scene, and along with the clear air makes it appear the mountain is immediately behind our home instead of 25 miles away.

Lovely sunset

2010-01-06T16:46:00.001-08:00

Perfect end to a gorgeous day.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Happy New Year ~ here's to a great 2010

2010-01-01T14:31:00.001-08:00

Dust storm, southern Arizona

2009-12-22T17:48:00.000-08:00

We left this morning for Los Angeles, and thanks to my dad for alerting us to a terrible 20-vehicle wreck on I-10 we headed west to Ajo. We drove though viscious wind and thick dust but little traffic. Long day!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Wilderness First Aid

2009-12-18T16:15:00.001-08:00

Taking Wilderness First Aid training specifically for overland travel, with Overland Training. Right now, brain injury!

-- Posted from my iPhone

In the clouds

2009-12-14T10:57:00.000-08:00

The cloud layer just dropped right down onto us - visibility is now 50 meters.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Happy holidays

2009-12-10T19:00:00.001-08:00

We put out our Christmas tree today in the bird-feeding yard -- decorated with fruit and seed balls and topped with a hummingbird feeder.

-- Posted from my iPhone

The color of drought

2009-12-06T08:17:00.000-08:00

Although beautiful, the magenta color in the Santa Rita prickly pear cactus right now is much deeper because of drought stress. Rain may be coming tomorrow - we hope!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Sonoran Safari - El Aribabi Conservation Ranch

2009-11-29T17:48:00.000-08:00

We just returned from our first ConserVentures Sonoran Safari to El Aribabi Conservation Ranch in northern Sonora, Mexico. Six travelers from Oklahoma, central California, and northern Arizona joined us to explore the backcountry of the Sierra Madrean foothills and learn about jaguar and ocelot conservation on this spectacular ranch owned by the wonderful Robles family.

You can read more about the trip on the ConserVentures website here; and there are more pictures on the ConserVentures Picasa album here. We will be scheduling more adventure safaris to El Aribabi every few months - please join us!

Hola de Rancho el Aribabi

2009-11-28T14:32:00.000-08:00

On safari in Sonora. The view right now. Wish you were here!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Desert drink

2009-11-25T15:40:00.000-08:00

Every morning two groups of quail visit for seed and water - usually the Gambel's come first, right after dawn. After sunrise, the scaled quail fly in from the east, almost always. These are the "scalies" - you can see the lovely pattern on their breasts.

Snack time

2009-11-23T13:23:00.001-08:00

One of our Harris ground squirrels has been enjoying the decorative coyote melons I found in a nearby tree and had scattered around the porch perimeter . . . this one cleaned out one of the gourds over the course of an hour, leaving a lovely little mess on the porch!

Snow in the desert

2009-11-18T08:51:00.000-08:00

No, not the kind from the sky . . . the desert broom (Baccharis sarothroides) is sending out its fluffy seeds, filling the wash with snowy clouds each time a breeze gives the plants a shake. These are among my favorite native plants - they are colonizers of disturbed areas, and their blooms, in September and October, are incredibly attractive to nectivores - wasps, bees, butterflies - I've counted over 2 dozen species in just a jew minutes' observation at a desert broom in bloom.

Fall cleaning

2009-11-16T12:03:00.000-08:00

I finally could stand the dust and cobwebs on my desk / workbench no longer. Had fun going through the many little items I add to the "still life" scenes amidst lapidary and metalsmith tools. An organized but compulsive packrat. Stones from the Skeleton Coast; a nest from Alberta; sprigs of wild African lavender from Kenya; a plaster cast of a mountain lion print from the Baboquivari Mountains; coral from the Caribbean; quartz from Mexico; and topaz from Ethiopia ... All remind me of a trip or experience.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Crazy beautiful sunset

2009-11-06T16:48:00.000-08:00

Nov. 6 - 0545 pm

-- Posted from my iPhone

Lion on the move

2009-11-03T07:32:00.000-08:00

On our walk this morning found these nice lion tracks on the road to Stevens Mountain. A small female, most likely. We are curious to see if both our incautious little white-tail fawns are still around.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Photos from Rancho El Aribabi volunteer work weekend

2009-11-02T20:35:00.001-08:00

More images are uploaded here on Picasa: http://picasaweb.google.com/TheOverlandSociety/

And a description of the project here: http://overlandsociety.org/?page_id=58

Volunteer weekend in Sonora, MX

2009-11-01T13:29:00.000-08:00

We are just now crossing the border at Nogales after a great 3 days working at Rancho Aribabi, as an Overland Society volunteer project. We will post more pictures soon. It was a fun trip - stunning landscape, great people, good cause. What more could we want?

-- Posted from my iPhone

2009-10-28T14:00:00.000-07:00

After just a week of getting settled home (well, semi-settled), Jonathan and I are spending a few days at Rancho Aribabi, Sonora, Mexico on a volunteer work trip with Overland Society and Sky Island Alliance. A cold front moved in last night with 40+mph winds and now it's cold - in the 50s, with a biting wind. We hope it clears up and warms up!

Rancho Aribabi is the same location we'll be running exploration trips for ConserVentures later in November and again in 2010. Check them out at http://www.conserventures.org/Trips-Classes.html

A sight seldom seen in 10 days

2009-10-22T18:40:00.000-07:00

The sun . . . home in the Sonoran Desert . . . 4501 miles exactly. What a fantastic trip.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Blizzard!

2009-10-21T12:18:00.000-07:00

Seems the whole of the West is under this storm. We have been in heavy snow since Nebraska and now we are approaching southern Colorado and hear NM is also snowy.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Sioux country

2009-10-21T06:14:00.000-07:00

The original overland travel vehicle, Great Plains style (this private herd resides within the Thunder Basin National Grassland).

And some Great Plains humor:

Yesterday we visited the grave of Red Cloud, a moving experience. We leave Nebraska for home today.

-- Posted from my iPhone

South Dakota archaeology

2009-10-20T10:49:00.001-07:00

We visited the site where the skeleton of Dinosauraus flintstonicus was found. Here is a recreation. Wilma and Fred also found nearby.

-- Posted from my iPhone

On the Bozeman Trail

2009-10-18T17:34:00.001-07:00

In the shadow of the Bighorns. Blackfoot Brewing courtesy Doug M in Montana. A great trail today but rain and snow forecast so we opted to camp out of the high country.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Yellowstone traffic

2009-10-18T06:50:00.001-07:00

-- Posted from my iPhone

Scenes from Cody, WY

2009-10-17T21:46:00.001-07:00

Tom Palmore's cougar at the Whitney Museum of Western Art; Corvette cowboy; jalapeño cheddar elk brats with sautéd red peppers and onions, bacon and baked beans, and oven fries.

-- Posted from my iPhone

View from the window . . .

2009-10-14T15:39:00.001-07:00

. . . At Crow's Nest Pass resort, where we are giving a conservation communication workshop. It has been snowing and socked in pretty thick so we have not seen the area, which is a pretty dramatic part of the Rockies. The workshop is going well so far.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Not in the Sonoran Desert, Toto

2009-10-13T08:51:00.001-07:00

Crossed the beautiful Missouri River at Cascade, MT, and headed into the backcountry to visit a private ranch and logging camp at the invitation of friend and Overland Journal subscriber Doug M. As you can see we hit an early winter storm. Even the Montanans were griping! Set a new record low for the date -- even the trees had no time for fall colors. We enjoyed Doug's hospitality, including lamb tacos (fresh from the ranch) and chocolate and bourbon to keep us warm. This morning the rear doors on the Jeep are frozen shut.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Cafe Ole'

2009-10-12T06:26:00.001-07:00

Found a great new eatery in Flagstaff yesterday. On San Francisco just south of the tracks. Fantastic tamales.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Canada bound

2009-10-11T10:29:00.001-07:00

Jonathan and I left this morning for Crowsnest, Alberta, where we are teaching a conservation communications workshop for the Alberta Conservation Alliance. En route through central Arizona we met up with Graham Jackson of Overland Training. Here is Jonathan and Graham in front of the 2 Overland Journal Jeeps, on loan from Chrysler. Graham's "Overland Edition" debuted at Overland Expo.2009. Our version is the magazine's longterm test to showcase an "out of the showroom ready to overland" model. We will return via Wyoming for some backroads exploration.
-- Posted from my iPhone

I love kingbirds

2009-10-09T13:13:00.000-07:00

We've seen them land on ravens' backs locally - amazing. The hawk's "expression" seems suitably irate. Courtesy Querencia blog (stephenbodio.blogspot.com) via the Denver Post.

Dusk visitor

2009-10-08T18:17:00.000-07:00

A beautiful gray fox, which are so russet they are mistaken for non-native red foxes, just came to drink water at dusk, and grab a bite of stale tortilla from the bird feeding yard.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Golden grasses & light

2009-10-07T10:49:00.001-07:00

On our walk this morning the golden fall light was really emphasized by all the blooming, fruiting grasses. Trying to capture the glow...these are tangleheads and sprangletops. Great names!

-- Posted from my iPhone

Tangerine sunset

2009-10-04T18:19:00.001-07:00

The view west from Ravenrock.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Fall fruits, AZ

2009-10-03T10:35:00.001-07:00

Back at Ravenrock in the Sonoran Desert. Fall is here...the desert hackberries are fruiting, phaenopeplas are arriving and turkey vultures departing.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Random Kenya (2)

2009-09-30T10:32:00.000-07:00

Maasai dogs; a distinct breed, with an ancient relationship with the pastoralists - especially young boys. The dogs guard the cattle, as well as run down game individually or cooperatively.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Random Kenya (1)

2009-09-30T10:26:00.000-07:00

Dawn over the Great Rift Valley. Olkiramatian, Kenya.

Drought aid for education - South Rift Valley

2009-09-28T11:07:00.000-07:00

School near Magadi, South Rift, in September 2008 - happy kids with new t-shirts from Earth Expeditions program.

The same school this month - boarded up, deserted.

The widespread six-month drought in Kenya has devastated wildlife and cattle, bringing much of pastoral Maasai and Samburu people to the brink of true disaster - losses are staggering. But another victim of the drought is lesser known: education. Most families can no longer afford school fees (school is neither compulsory nor free in Kenya). Children of critical age - early education - are being pulled out, schools are closing. Elders have shared with me that in the 1960s they went through a similar drought, and they were pulled out of school. Most never returned. In order for conservation to succeed, we must support education of the next generation. Without education, the future is lost. Conservation is lost. I've helped establish a fundraising campaign to keep 40 schools open across the South Rift for three months, which will cost approximately $23,000. We've succeeded in bringing in a $10,000 matching grant from Cincinnati Zoo, and in just 2 days have reached halfway. Please join us in helping this important effort. See http://www.africanconservationfund.org

Rain comes to the Rift

2009-09-25T02:25:00.001-07:00

Blessed rain arrived yesterday in the South Rift . . . A real life saver. We saw newborn giraffe and 2 lovely cheetahs. On the way back to camp the mud was incredible and it won out -- we were stuck for 5 hours. Did not get back til 1am. Life in the bush!

-- Posted from my iPhone

South Rift Resource Centre

2009-09-23T04:41:00.001-07:00

After a week in Nairobi in meetings for African Conservation Centre, I am now out in the South Rift visiting the Resource Centre, one of the projects I am assisting with fundraising and development. This is Tom Sayiaka and Loserim, Maasai resource assessors, and Samantha Russell, site coordinator. The Centre is the first community research centre of it's kind in the region. We have been discussing fundraising and networking opportunities as well as safaris.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Fall is here

2009-09-13T18:23:00.000-07:00

We've had an interesting hummingbird migration change in the last 4 days ~ for more than a week prior to Labor Day we had almost entirely Black-chinned Hummingbirds dominating our 3 feeders, as many as 10 - 12 birds. Then from September 9 - 10, the activity dropped to just a couple Anna's males, who sat and sang and sparred a bit. But then today, a few late Rufous migrants roared in and we have 6-8 birds zooming around madly again. Fall in the Sonoran Desert!

Weather continues to be unsettled for September - we had a wonderful hard rain last night.

I'm leaving tomorrow for Kenya for a couple weeks, to do some work there with the South Rift Association of Land Owners and African Conservation Centre. I will post images and video as I can - I'll be surveying and reporting on much of the drought, which is devastating.

Nature journals at the Getty

2009-09-09T19:23:00.001-07:00

The Getty has two wonderful
exhibits this month of interest to journal keepers. There is a display of sketches and field journals of 17th century French landscape artists, and a breathtaking exhibit of illuminated manuscripts, many of which depict nature scenes.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Off to Los Angeles

2009-09-07T13:16:00.000-07:00

We will be in southern California for a few days, picking up my biodiesel-powered Land Cruiser. It will be interesting to see the extent of the fires. We will also try to spend a day at the Getty museum. Meanwhile the view right now is classic I-10.

-- Posted from my iPhone

Royal Geographical Society

2009-09-05T06:21:00.000-07:00

Today I got the wonderful news that I have been selected as a Fellow with the Royal Geographical Society. The Society was founded in 1830 as an institution to promote the advacement of geographical science. It's an honor I'm really excited about and will use the affiliation to promote the conservation and ecotourism projects with whom I'm working.

The history of the Society was closely allied for many of its earlier years with ‘colonial’ exploration in Africa, the Indian subcontinent, the polar regions, and central Asia especially. It enshrines such famous names as Livingstone, Stanley, Scott, Shackleton, Hunt and Hillary. The Society also devoted much attention to education and was responsible for both the incorporation of the study of geography in schools at the turn of the 20th century and for the first university positions in the discipline.

With the advent of a more systematic study of geography, the Institute of British Geographers was formed in the 1933, by some Society fellows, as a sister body to the Society. The RGS and IBG co-existed for 60 years until, after several years of discussion, they merged in January 1995 to create the new Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers).

Today, with 15,000 members, the Society is the largest and most active of the scholarly geographical societies. It advances geography through supporting geographical research, education and outdoor learning, public engagement and policy. rgs.org

Vin de noix ~ Green walnut wine (2) ~ done

2009-09-03T09:27:00.001-07:00

I decanted and tested the vin de noix (green walnut wine) that I wrote about in August, after gathering green walnuts in New Mexico and trying an ancient European recipe for a fortified summer wine. The wine is deep, dark walnut-brown with a hint of red . . . the aroma is wonderful: warm, spicy. And the taste? Very nice, not at all bitter and only a tiny bit astringent. A delicious, rich aperitif with hints of citrus and spice. I decided to stop the steeping now and bottle this batch. A fun and successful experiment.

New ConserVentures class and trip offerings

2009-09-01T18:21:00.000-07:00

A quick advert that ConserVentures has some new class and trip offerings in northern Mexico - a "Sonoran Safari" and a Gran Desierto adventure - and a classic overland safari in Kenya. Trips include natural history guiding, overland educational modules, and, as always, some time to work on personal journals, photography, and art.

Please check them out here.

Making pigments from local materials (3): cochineal beetle

2009-09-01T18:08:00.000-07:00

In the deserts of the Americas you might notice that the prickly pear cactus plants (genus Opuntia) sometimes are covered with what looks like white spit-wads. If you look closely, or touch one of the deposits, it's silky white web-like material. This is actually a protective covering of a little insect called a cochineal (Dactylopius sp.), which is a parasitic scale insect. The insect itself is tiny, about 3-4 mm across; their bodies contain carminic acid, which is a vivid purple-red color - presumably nasty-tasting to discourage predation. If you even gently bump one of them, they ooze this red liquid, which instantly will dye your finger.

I had read that cochineal was one of the earliest and most valuable sources of red dye. Aztecs and Mayas cultivated them; and during the time of the Conquistadores, cochineal dye powder was the second most important economic export after silver - that is a lot of insects!

Because of my interest in natural dyes and inks (see labels for those subjects), I have been looking for a colony of cochineal so I could experiment with using their pigment for coloring in my journal. Earlier in August, visiting my parents in southwestern New Mexico, I was delighted to find some infestations by this sessile parasite. I collected about 20 of them in a margarine tub:

You can see the bright magenta color. I did some research, because I had initially read that the color they produced was red-red, as in the British redcoats, and in Betsy Ross' flag. The original dye preparation involved adding an acid, so I added a little vinegar to a bit of cochineal liquid, and voila, it turned a rich red.

Right now my insect bodies are drying, and I will grind them and add an acid - either vinegar or lemon juice - and see how it goes with use as a pigment in my journaling.

Beautiful patterns in nature ~ cryptic coloring (2)

2009-08-14T06:00:00.000-07:00

This horned lizard was snoozing beside a rock in the upper bird-feeding yard.

A beautiful example of cryptic coloring.

Can you find him?

He is in the lower right next in the photos, next to a pale rock.

Juvenile ravens at West Coast Tank

2009-08-09T10:19:00.000-07:00

About 30 miles south of us is a large manmade charco (Spanish for cattle pond), which fills seasonally - usually in summer when the heavy rains flood the normally dry washes. West Coast Tank is several acres, with a small island in the middle that is sometimes a peninsula, depending on the volume of water. We were delighted to discover this amazing oasis in July and are making regular "safaris" there to enjoy the birds and other wildlife.

One of the highlights of a visit on Saturday was sneaking up on two juvenile ravens sitting deep in a mesquite tree - sound asleep! They were small, about 2/3 size, and the closest one to us (about six feet away) was clearly asleep, slightly wavering back and forth, very comfy in the cool canopy. When they finally heard us, they started shuffling around a little and then started calling - high-pitched for ravens, not yet fully developed. Soon their parents swooped in to scold us and protect them. We left soon thereafter. But the feeling of standing so close to them, while they snoozed, was really quite wonderful - a real nature connection.

Click the player below to hear them vocalizing - their voices are the distinctly higher pitched calls, while the parents - who arrived quickly upon hearing their alarm - are deep and throaty. I recorded this using the iPhone and iTalk from Griffen (If the player does not work, try clicking this to open in a new window: Juvenile Ravens )

Vin de noix ~ Green walnut wine

2009-08-08T07:02:00.000-07:00

Walnuts (Juglans major) in the southwestern states are beginning to ripen . . . time to try something I've had in my nature notes for some time: vin noix (green walnut wine), made from noix de Saint-Jean (Saint John's walnut). One of the best tutorials on the origin and making of this European aperitif is on William Rubel's website (williamrubel.com). Traditionally in France the walnuts (from J. regia) are harvested around June 24, which is Saint Jean's Day, the feast of Saint John. Our southwestern species don't begin to grow until later in July. I don't know if our wild walnuts will yield a quality flavored product (it's actually one of several flavorings in what's known as a fortified wine, since it's made by infusing alcohol and wine with botanicals and spices). The recipes refer to the astringent quality of the walnuts, and ours certainly have that characteristic. I gathered these in New Mexico's Mimbres Valley, northeast of Silver City.

Vin de Noix (from William Rubel)

40 young walnuts that can be pierced with a needle, rinsed and quartered
1 liter alcohol such as brandy, marc, eau de vie, or vodka
5 liters red wine
1 kg sugar (2 pounds)
One or more of the following are often added, but are optional
12 walnut leaves
Zest of 1 orange
4 to 8 cloves
1 vanilla bean

[I reduced the recipe to 15 wild walnuts; 1.25 L red Italian table wine; .25 L vodka; 225 g sugar; 4 walnut leaves; half a vanilla bean; zest of 1/4 orange; 4 cloves.]

1. Pick the walnuts in late June when the walnuts are well formed, but can still be pierced with a needle. Place all of the ingredients in an 8 quart (8 liter) non-reactive container with a lid. I use a large glass jar. Store in a cool dark place for 6 to 8 weeks, shaking occasionally.

2. Strain through cheesecloth into a bowl. Taste, and adjust the sugar if you want the drink to be sweeter. Bottle and store in a cool dark place until the cold weather.

Check back in eight weeks for a taste test. I'll also look for ripe walnuts in the fall; these make excellent pigment.

Prickly pear fruit ripening . . .

2009-08-06T06:53:00.000-07:00

And the desert dwellers, including us, enjoy their tart-sweet goodness, complete with fuschia lips.

I will be extracting prickly pear juice this week. Meanwhile a local desert tortoise shows evidence of snacking.

iPhone as a journal tool

2009-07-29T06:34:00.000-07:00

I caved in to the urge and got an iPhone 3G . . . and have been amazed. It's not 'just' a phone, it's a tiny computer and a GPS. It instantly replaced five 'gadgets' I usually have with me: phone, iPod, computer, camera, and GPS. An unexpected bonus is that I have found it a perfect journaling tool.

What bird was that? The other day we drove down to a pond south of us, and were astonished to find hundreds of birds enjoying the bounty of water in the desert. I didn't have my full field guide set with me, but I was able to confirm Common Ground Dove calling with National Geographic's Handheld Birds app - most every entry includes sound as well as images and data.

I have a real ineptitude for remembering astronomy. My all-time-favorite app thus far is StarWalk. Like having a mini planetarium and personal starguide in your pocket. It's difficult to describe just how cool this app is - you can zoom in and out, scroll 360 degrees around the dome of the sky, including what's below the horizon . . . click on a planet or star or cluster and get full data on it . . . and search for the name of a celestial object and it will show you where it is - all in exact relation to your current location. So when I note in my journal the arresting moonscape-and-planet I saw at 4 am, I can look up exactly which planet.

I always note the times of sun and moon rising and setting, as well as the moon phase. This great app, called Sun and Moon, always keeps it at my fingertips.

With the GPS and two very useful apps, I am always able to follow our route on topographical maps in the U.S., or using Google maps elsewhere. Topo Maps has a full set of USGS maps for download, and GPS MotionX turns the iPhone GPS into a fully functional track and waypoint tool and then some. I no longer need my Garmin, and furthermore it's much easier to use, download maps, and export and share data.

Finally, I am always using the built-in iPhone camera to take snapshots of things I want to sketch, like beetles or a nice sunset. And I can use All-in Notes to take quick voice memos or combined photo / note / memos and email them to my main computer.

All the apps are available at the App store; just use the Search function to find.

I {heart} . . . coyotes

2009-07-27T07:22:00.000-07:00

Coyote at dusk, Ravenrock 2007.

Coyote howls, Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.

A touch of tropics

2009-07-24T16:40:00.000-07:00

Lovely rain is turning our desert tropical.

Fruit ripening on the prickly pear cactuses.

A mini Zen-rock-garden, pebbles from Baja that turn cactus-green in the rain.